I’ve been to 43 European capitals, but there’s only one I keep going back to

A city that’s yet to have its mainstream moment (Picture: Frans Sellies/Getty Images)

Konrad Warzecha is full-time traveller and house-sitting expert who has visited more of Europe than most know exists. He tells our Travel Editor Alice Murphy about his favourite city.

I have visited 43 European capitals across years of solo backpacking, and out of all 43, a few stand out.

Rome is alive in a way that most cities are not, and Warsaw has an unbelievable food scene.

But with a gun to my head, I must say that Skopje sits at the top of my list.

Still under the radar, the capital and largest city of North Macedonia is not overrun with tourists, and has a real charm that vanishes when a city have their moment and settle into the tourism groove.

Skopje has not, and that’s exactly why it is so exciting. In a few years, I think that will change, so there’s never been a better time to visit.

The Warrior on a Horse monument in Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia (Picture: SW Photography/Getty Images)

When I visited Skopje for the first time, I had zero expectations, and I’ll admit that the suburbs of the city did not change my mind.

But in the centre, surrounded by the main attractions like Macedonia Square, Stone Bridge, and the Old Bazaar, I was genuinely blown away.

Everywhere there is white marble, magnificent if rather bizarre sculptures, and elegant bridges, all very well kept and beautiful in a way I was not prepared for.

Skopje is extremely walkable; you can cross the whole city on foot in about half an hour. If you’d rather not, public transport is almost comically cheap.

Around eight to 10 pounds gets you a full week, including the cable car up to the Millennium Cross.

It also felt like one of the safest cities we have visited, so walking at night was not an issue.

North Macedonia is slightly smaller than Belgium, but it welcomed just 1.4 million international visitors last year against Belgium’s 10 million.

To explain how emerging this emerging destination really is, I’ll give you an anecdote.

Skopje recently got its first digital speed cameras, and our tour guide was proud that he was the only one in town who hadn’t been fined yet.

You know somewhere is still undiscovered when the guide treats speed cameras like local legend. And you sometimes share the highways with cows. It just adds to the adventure.

What traffic jams look like in North Macedonia (Picture: Konrad Warzecha)

The surrounding countryside is spectacular. Skopje itself you can see in a couple of days, but one of its strengths is that it makes a brilliant base.

The city is ringed by mountains with ski slopes and within 20 minutes, you can be at Matka Canyon, in one of the most stunning national parks I have ever been to.

Lake Ohrid, with its dazzling waters and unique ecosystem of some 200 native species, is an easy drive well worth the three-ish hour journey.

And, because North Macedonia borders so many countries, you can be in Kosovo, Serbia, Greece or Albania in a couple of hours.

The Orthodox church of Saint John the Theologian overlooking Lake Ohrid (Picture: Paul Biris/Getty Images)

To get your bearings on your first day in Skopje, start in the main square.

From there, I would book a tour with the likes of Get Your Guide, but go for the cheapest package rather than the premium one.

You get the same local guide taking you to the Millennium Cross, the Old Bazaar, a lovely old church and out to Matka Canyon.

You just pay the small entry fees as you go, which works out cheaper than the all-inclusive option. Tours start around £15 per person.

If you want to get off the tourist trail, it helps that Skopje is barely touristy to begin with.

The centre is built for visitors, but walk five minutes in any direction and you are in a completely different city.

All locals, nobody selling you anything. Everyone we met greeted us with a smile. It is one of the warmest places I have been to.

Konrad and his partner Caro are full-time travellers (Picture: Konrad Warzecha)

In this part of the world, food is serious business, and traditional Macedonian fare is up there with the best of it.

Hearty and ridiculously cheap, the grilled meats in particular are excellent.

Try ajvar, a smoky, roasted red pepper relish they put on everything, and tavce gravce, the national baked bean dish that sounds humble but is absolutely delicious.

Oh and grab a burek for breakfast. Our guide pointed us to the spots the locals actually go to:

Skopski Merak Spajz Old House

If I had to pick one, Skopski Merak. Good food, live music, and exactly the warm if slightly chaotic atmosphere that sums Skopje up.

Just like restaurants, there is accommodation to suit every budget here.

We went cheap, with an Airbnb for around 85 pounds total (!) for four nights, about 15 minutes walk from the centre.

If you want to spend a bit more, there are lovely places all over the city.

At the top end, Marriott Skopje (rooms from £95) is a good five-star option with a spa.

As told to Alice Murphy.

Konrad Warzecha is a full-time traveller and the founder of HouseSittersGuide.com. Since 2023, he and his partner Caro have completed 20 house sits across 12 countries. In November 2025, they left their apartment, bought a 1998 VW T4 campervan, and have since driven nearly 19,000km across Europe.

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